Sunday, July 08, 2007

Westward Hmm!

We're thinking about moving to Portland.

I mean, I like DC well enough; I'm grateful to be here; and, as I'm quick to tell people, it beats India. But I'm here because my job's here, and, apart from that, I have no particular warm fuzzies for the place. It's unobjectionable; at most, a weak positive.

My job changed the rules on me last week. I didn't post on it earlier, because I've been mulling over the implications. In a continuing series of both minor and major alterations to standard operating procedures, rather crudely designed to force people to go to Iraq, the bureaucracy has re-jiggered the rules on hardship postings. The changes are complex, but the bottom line is this: because I did not stay in India two months longer than I did, it's as if I was never there at all. (Tell that to my continuing digestive tract problems.)

And Thailand, retroactively, doesn't count as hardship at all (it doesn't, retroactively, in memory, either, so fair enough on that one). Thus, although I thought I was back in the US for up to five years, I actually have to bid on a "significant hardship" post no later than 2009. And considering I'd already decided the only thing that might entice me into doing another overseas tour would be the prospect of Bangkok or Berlin -- both now essentially reserved as rewards for Iraq service -- this kind of bums me out.

So I'm thinking: to hell with it.

I mean, believe me, I've thought that before. My current posting is largely benign, but if neither the job nor the city are wowing me, and it's going to take a turn for the worse sooner than I thought, and my top bids are already off the table -- well, really, why bother?


So I've been quietly but persistently trying to sell K on Portland (heh: I just accidentally typed "Berlin." Yes, that too, though there's a residency visa problem there.) Our incredibly well-thought-through plan is that we'd use my savings to buy a house -- they'd get us a tiny condo here -- and K would get some sort of proper, mortgage-paying job, and I'd earn pin money via freelance journalism. We'll figure out the details later.

I don't think it's actually as crazy as it sounds -- provided K gets the job before I buy the house -- especially as there's a bit of a safety net: if I can resist the impulse to create a bonfire spectacular of my bridges, my workplace has a fairly liberal re-entry policy. And I'm a thousand percent ready to dump income for increased quality of life, especially as the gain would be steeper than the loss; heck, it's like a sale on happiness.

Obviously, I've got a few concerns about Portland, especially as when I stayed there for three months after coming back from Thailand, it seemed distinctly less cosmopolitan than I'd remembered (restaurants close at ten?). And it's an annoyingly longer flight to my beloved Europe, where, so help me, I will one day live. And K's never been there at all, though it's an easily packaged city to stun someone over a long weekend, especially if I rather disingenuously take him there in August.

And, after that, we'll settle down for a while, honest.

9 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Deja vu, deja vu. Does your life have to be 1001 re-cycles?

12:09 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, Berlin ... Now *there's* a city that I'd live in in a heartbeat.

Apart from visa issues, there is also the slight problem of getting to know people.

One of my London friends lived in Munich for nine years and, despite being the sort of person that one simply cannot dislike, he always felt himself on the outside looking in. And he speaks good German.

I also met a woman this past weekend who has lived in Zurich for twelve years after living in Hamburg for five, and -- same story in both places.

Maybe Berlin's cosmopolitanism saves it from being too insular, but somehow I doubt it.

As for Portland: no comment, apart from, can you possibly be serious?

3:49 AM  
Blogger esquiver said...

Anonymous (Mom?):

Response 1:
Yes. And I always pre-sort.

Response 2:
Yes. Until I escape this endless samsara and achieve moksch.

Response 3:
Yes. Just call me the Veja Dude(tte).

Response 4:
Actually, I see it as rather scientific: Rather like that ol'Milton Bradley (Parker Brothers?) standby of "Life" ("Careers"?), Right Living can be broken down into a formula. I see mine as: Right Livelihood, Right Partner, Right Place. At the moment, I KNOW I don't have the place or the livelihood. I remember having a pretty good bead on a Right(-enough) place, albeit at the Wrong Age and not with the Right Partner. I have a pretty good inkling of Right Livelihood. And with only one variable in play, I should be able to resolve the Right Partner question for once and for all. Perfectly logical.

10:30 PM  
Blogger esquiver said...

Italophile:

You ex-Seattle snob!!

Portland is a seriously charming place in while to dig a little burrow, put out a "Dun Roamin'" sign and hide (at least until the next election).

It's not my if-I-had-the-means-to-live-anywhere choice. But, look: I don't, and I'm spending more than half my take-home pay on rent, and only renting in such an exorbitant (and meh) area in order to have the (meh) job. It's insanity, and I've got to stop fearing the Sword of Damocles and instead use it to snip the Gordian Knot. Or something like that.

As for those aloof Germans -- interesting. Every time I've been there, I actually feel relieved: people make sense, and I find them reassuringly predictable. To a remarkable degree (and without finding them particularly praiseworthy) they're the cultural norms I was raised with -- Germany feels more familiar, in some ways, than the US. I was being only semi-facetious, in a previous post, about Nationality Dysphoria Disorder.

I do also think Berlinners are a bit different. I was *amazed* at how easy it was to fall into conversation with people on the trains and in cafes, etc, simply by following Berlin Rules: you see something wryly amusing; you make eye contact with a stranger, and you nonverbally communicate that you each are amused and see that the other person is, too. And then it's ok to talk to each other. But that was very different in Munich, which, while lovely, definitely felt more "closed."

10:55 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

A thousand (and one?) pardons!

I was NOT denigrating Portland in the least. I not only agree with your general assessment, but would strongly consider moving there myself if my circumstances were different or should change in the future. Come on: I cycle everywhere. How could I not adore a place like Portland that practically deifies the cyclist and is as clean as London is dirty? And remember that you are still talking to Mr. Too-Practical-for-His-Own-Good. Portland is the embodiment of practicality.

It was simply that I couldn't imagine YOU living there again, though I apologize for not taking your change-of-heart seriously.

I will have to keep the Berlin Rules in mind. Both my Munich pal and my Zurich/Hamburg acquaintance acknowledged that Berlin was more relaxed than their cities, but hazarded that it was only marginally more so.

I have a friend visiting from Berlin this weekend so I will ask her, although she is (1) new to the city, (2) on a fellowship for the next year (sorry, we're too old to qualify -- I already investigated) where she has a built-in social network of other fellowship recipients if all else fails, and (3) aggressively friendly (in the nicest possible sense).

12:48 AM  
Blogger esquiver said...

Now, see, there's your problem: aggressively friendly and nice. I mean, geez, might as well wear a T-shirt that says "I am probably the McDonalds-eating greenhouse-gas-emitting WMD-believing Republican-voting can't-find-Canada-on-a-map American your parents warned you about."

You can't be aggressively friendly; you'll frighten the Chummans. Indirect. Wry. A touch of tristesse, if she can pull it off. (Though she may be too young to qualify...)

10:26 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Boston/Providence/Portland ME is closer to Europe with a slightly Oregonian feel. Great cachet, so liberal, molto universities and there's snow only in the winter....

6:36 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

we barely get to see you when you live in D.C. if you move to portland we'd never see you!!!! DON'T MOVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! plus Berlin is in Europe which would be far closer to any university I'll end up going to, you could play the "cool" aunt!!! :)

11:30 PM  
Blogger esquiver said...

PLAY the cool aunt? My dear, I AM the cool aunt. ;-)

8:48 PM  
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